RANSVESTIA

The country is unique for another reason too. Since it is only gradually coming out of the Middle Ages and into the 20th century and also out from under the sultanship into a democracy, the peasantry of the country doesn't understand or accept various modern attitudes. One of these is that they don't believe in putting their money in the banks, they hoard gold and bury it or put it into jewelry for their women. As a result it is hard for banks to build up the deposits necessary for making loans of working capital to industry. Because of this every street light, bus stop beach, bill- board and large sign is an ad for a bank. Can you imagine taking all the ads you are accustomed to seeing in magazines, billboards, TV and every- where else for some brand of cigarettes and replacing them with adver- tisements for Bank of America, Chase National or some smaller local bank. It would be incongruous over here but Turkey is plastered with them.

While still in the Goreme area we visited the unbelievable under- ground city of Kay Makli, which was only discovered three years ago. Several thousands of people lived here at one time - Christians defending themselves from the Moslems. The whole city was underground, living, cooking, sewage systems, a water well and rooms and passages going everywhere. One could very easily get lost in there, and it seems impos- sible that all those people could be milling around underground like a bunch of ants but they did. The Moslems couldn't get at them, though, and that was the idea. Finishing with this area we bussed back to Ankara the way we had come. Two and a half days and two nights after we had aban- doned our original bus we got back to it. The poor boy left to look after it was still there. I had forgotten a book I was reading on it so I got our bus to stop while I went into the old one to look for it. He had found it and gave it to me, and I returned to our bus and took up a collection of oranges, figs, candy, and other eatments that everyone had stowed away in their baggage. The poor kid had been there the whole time with very little to eat or to do while watching the bus and waiting for the driver to make arrangements for getting it towed back to Anakara and installing a new transmission. They did get it fixed in due course, however, because when we arrived in Istanbul several days later there they were waiting to take care of us again.

After another night in Ankara we flew to Izmir-or, by its old name, Smyrna. It is an interesting city on the Aegean Sea and is a Turkish naval base. Next day was spent on a trip to Ephesus, one of the really important cities of ancient times. Here was built the Temple of Artmis (otherwise known as Diana of the Ephesians), which was regarded as one of the

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